NOTE: These plans are not like my kits that are intended for just about anyone. They are only a basic guide intended for experienced woodworkers since the use of large power tools is required and the handling of large pieces of wood which is a lot different than assembling a tiny doll accessory. They provide the basic concept and measurements, but really requires a person who can read between the lines to cut, prepare and assemble this large piece.

•Small pieces of 1" nominal dimension scrap for front and door. (approx. (6) pieces 2" x 36" ) - these will be ripped to 11/4" wide.
•(1) piece (4' x 8') 3/4" cabinet grade (birch) plywood or wide pine if available or pine glued together to achieve extra width.
•(1) piece approx. 16" x 36" 1/4" plywood-good on one side.
•About 12 feet (approx. lengths needed are (2) 36" and (4) 16" ) of a cove-type of molding to edge a 3/4" thickness


3/4" diameter wood knob
(2) brass hinges 2" x 11/4"
(6) glass clips that screw on to turn and hold glass in place screws to assemble
(2) small magnetic or other cabinet door closures a short length (20") of 3/8" dowel for a door prop (or special hinges designed to hold up cabinet doors)
•Miscellaneous: wood filler (ZAR brand in a tube is easy stuff to use).
220 grit sandpaper
1/2 yard of a small neutral print fabric for back wall (available from Gail Wilson Designs)
Stain - Minwax Early American, or my special brand of Minwax for good aged wood color (2 parts Early American, 1 part Cherry, 1 part Golden Oak, 1 part Colonial Maple)
Paint in a color of your choice (My color is Bruning Paint Co., Silithane II semi-gloss color Pine Grove), a very deep green that goes with anything (available from Gail Wilson Designs)
Glass to fit the door
30" cabinet light - the type that is a long brass 1/2" square bar; very low wattage; has a switch installed in line and adhesive backing, or other lighting of your choice
1. Cut large pieces:
(2) 35" x 15" (top and bottom - will have a 1/2" overhang on front and sides)
(2) 15-1/2" x 14-1/2" sides
(1) 32-1/2" x 14-1/2" floor
(3) 32-1/2" x 1-1/4" x 1" nominal (3/4" ) pine for top and bottom front and top back stretchers
(2) rip 1-1/4" x about 36" and (2) 1-1/4" x 14" to make door frame from pine scrap
2. Make a 3/8" wide x 3/8" deep rabbet along one 15-1/2" edge of each side piece to inset 1/4" thick plywood back (see illus. 3 )
3. Assemble two sides (with rabbets) toward back and 3 stretcher pieces with screws - have best sides of plywood toward inside. Position floor so that it is 1/4" higher than the 1-1/4" front bottom stretcher. This will stop door later. Also note to attach back top 1-1/4" stretcher to the inside of rabbet.
4. Cut molding at 45°angles to fit fronts and two sides edges of top and bottom
5. Screw top and bottoms to carcass of case. Back edges should all be flush. Fronts and sides have overhang.
6. Measure and cut a door frame to fit front opening. Allow 1/16" clearance all around door. To start, rabbet a 3/16" deep groove for glass in all 4 frame pieces. Then cut pieces at 45° corners.
7. Apply door hinges by mortising hinges into door frame only. Make hole for your knob but don’t apply it yet as it gets stained while door is painted (along with case) and it’s easier to paint door with knob off.
Apply 6 glass clips - (2) on top and bottom, one each side in center. Drill a hole to fit 3/8" dowel door holder-upper at 45° about halfway up door side (on back but not in glass groove). Hole should slant down. Drill another hole slanted toward front just inside case on floor just behind front stretcher and near side wall to prop holder-upper dowel in when door is assembled in finished case.
8. Unscrew door to paint. To mask edges of plywood showing in front, run a bead of wood filler down edge with finger to fill. Also fill all screw holes. When filler is dry, sand case. Pre-stain entire inside of case, backside of door and glass groove, door holder-upper and knob. Paint outside surfaces of case and door frame, or to your liking.
9. Cut the 1/4" plywood to fit entire back. Pre-drill holes to attach it to top back stretcher, two side rabbet grooves and bottom back edge of floor with best side in. Before attaching, use a lightweight staple gun to stretch fabric on entire inside surface - staple close to four edges. Pound staples in flat with hammer.

10. Details: A small shelf-peg rack came with the series. It is to be glued to fabric covered back wall (centered side to side) with the top of the shelf about 7-3/4" from where floor will be.
• Attach fabric covered back with shelf to case in predrilled holes.
• Attach light fixture at front most position possible to shine maximum light on objects inside. Create a hole to run cord out of. If necessary remove plug of light so you can make only a cord-size hole. Then attach a new removable plug once cord is through hole. Switch will remain inside.
• Attach stained knob to door and reattach door. Get glass to fit and clip clean glass in place.

• Put little protector “feet” (felt or rubber) on very bottom to keep bottom from getting or causing scratches.
• Attach magnetic closures inside.
• Cut pre-stained door holder-upper to fit case with door open.