These are used to make permanent very fine black lines and are called for in several of my kits for such things as eyes or at the very least they are good to sign and date your dolls with. They work well on cloth or painted cloth.
Black Micron $5.15Add to Cart
Brown Micron $5.15Add to Cart

A simple alternative for cloth doll faces (painted or cloth surface) is to use colored pencils (if "skin" is painted on doll face, paint must be thinned to sink in and have some "tooth" - flat paint only). This replaces the old small set of colored pencils for doing "painted" faces with colored pencils. It now includes the 8 colored pencils, a brown Micron pen, two paints, one for lips (sometimes painted lips work best or you can use colored pencils), some eye hi-light as this must be dotted on with a toothpick (also included) and matte varnish to seal it all. Pencil sharpener needed. $14.50 Add to Cart

These are the same pencils I put into all of my cloth (not painted surface although paint overdye is fine) dolls to add color to the cloth for cheeks. They can often be found in craft stores individually but I provide them here for those who don't want to have to look. Berol Prismacolor Sienna pencils. I cut them in half for a convenient size for sewing boxes. $1.75 Add to Cart


10 sheets of the special transparent vellum that can be used in laser printers or most copiers that use heat in the printing process. Line art faces (not color) printed onto this paper can then be ironed onto painted cloth for a perfect transfer to then paint or colored pencil in. Using a Clover iron (sold below) is recommended. $5.25 Add to Cart

20 sheets of flat freezer paper (heavy duty to keep flat) which are good for running through your printer. Freezer paper is great for printing out paper pieces for certain quilt designs or for doll patterns - just iron on, no pins, pull off and even re-use. $3.50 Add to Cart
Best all-purpose glue and recommended in many of my kits. 4 oz. Aleene's Tacky Glue in squeeze bottle.
$3.50 Add to Cart

MY PERSONAL PAINTING SERVICE ~ I will now prepaint any molded doll (and hair if applicable). If the doll also has molded hands and feet, these will be painted as well. Style of painting must be consistent with my presentation of the doll (no custom requests).  Prices vary depending on the doll involved and its complexity, but run from $45 - 65 (on average) and does not include cost of parts which are purchased separately or are already in a kit you are purchasing. If you add this item to your cart, we will email you with a confirmation of actual price depending on the doll parts or kit that this applies to. Add to Cart Or, you may call us with inquiries.
Note: Stuffed dolls cannot be accomodated due to the wide variance in other people's stuffing.

Brushes can be confusing. This is a complete selection of the brushes I use in all aspects of my dollmaking. You don't need to own all of these to get started, but if you continue, eventually you will find you need every one and face the fact that you will need to replace brushes now and then depending on how much use they get and more importantly, how well you clean them.
Note about brush sizes - these are very inconsistent from brand to brand and even within a brand. For instance a size 18/0 can look and behave identically to the same type of brush labeled as 10/0. So, I have stopped putting in the sizes as stamped on the brush. Also, sometimes I get one type of brush from one company and other types from another depending on what I would choose myself. This may also be reflected in prices that are seemingly inconsistent. Just know that if you respect my work, I am using the same brushes as I sell.

A BASIC SET TO GET STARTED (newly revised) - In doubt about what to have? This basic set of 10 brushes has all the ones I use the most, including the small concealer brush used for cheeks (see below). Price is about 10% less than buying the brushes individually. $75.00 Add to Cart

LINERS - These are used for painting stand alone lines (eyeliner, lashes, brows and stripes) and are designed for dragging along dispensing paint stored in their longer bristles to make fine lines. I also sometimes use these to outline lips using a larger brush to fill in. Use the script for painting longer lines (eyebrows, eyelids) on larger dolls (12" and up), stripes or making starting lines for tops of painted doll shoes. Tip: never use a spotter or a typical round brush for lines (eyelining or eyebrows). Because they have shorter bristles it may look like you would have control, but they are not designed for holding paint along a line so you end up having to get more paint more often which interupts the painting of a smooth continous line.

• Fine Line - I use this brush, often trimmed finer (see below*Note) for nearly all my dolls eyelines. $7.50 Add to Cart
• Script Liner - These are good for dragging longer lines (eyebrows on larger dolls and garter stripes on legs). $8.00 Add to Cart

*Special Note for Liners - I find that to get the just right size for doll painting in my scale (dolls 14" or under), that the best lines are painted by removing a quarter to a half of the bristles of all of the liners. I keep one of each brush on hand - trimmed and untrimmed - and feel they are my most important brushes. I used to offer to pre-trim these brushes for you, but with the new source of brushes I am now selling, it is not so necessary. But because it is something everyone should know when and how to do, I now include a little set of instructions with each of the liner brushes so that you will know when you might need to do this to your brush and how. If you do trim your liner brushes, I do recommend you have in addition untrimmed ones to use in other places where you may need a fatter stroke.

ROUNDS - Used for outlining larger areas (such as hair or painted on shoes) where the filling in is done with a broader flat brush and filling in touch up areas such as when painting lips or eyes - the whites, irises or pupils. On tiny dolls, also are the filler-in brushes. Do not use for filling in larger areas or you can end up with too much paint and a choppy surface.

Spotters - Think of this brush to dot, not paint. Used for pupils on tiny dolls or repairing/filling in small areas on tiny dolls (not for painting lines!) $7.00 Add to Cart
Fine - This would be used on the smallest dolls. $8.00 Add to Cart
Medium - Use this size on medium size areas. $9.50 Add to Cart
Large - Before I found cosmetic concealer brushes (below), this was my cheek brush. It is round large enough to stipple on cheek paint in a dry brush effect (dabbing with almost no paint on ends of bristles). I don't use it myself much due to preferring the concealer brushes, but there is still a call for this from dollmakers. $10.00 Add to Cart

FLAT BRUSHES - Good for surface painting in broad strokes. I use the smallest for filling in whites of eyes, irises, and lips on dolls bigger than Hitty. I use the 1/8 - 1/4 for edging and filling in for hair and painted shoes. The 3/8" ones are used for spreading on larger areas of paint like skin and sealing coats. Hint: I keep separate brushes in each size for dark paints and clear coating due to tiny bits of color pigment stay lodged in the bristles (no matter how much you clean) that get stuck in the finish clear coats.

• 1/8" $7.50 Add to Cart
• 3/16" $7.75 Add to Cart
• 1/4" 9.00 Add to Cart
• 3/8" 13.00 Add to Cart
Note: Some of my kits refer to using a 1/2" flat brush. This is still true and also for spreading paint or clear coats on larger dolls. I have stopped selling them since keeping a large stock of brushes is hard these days and I find I am using them less as I concentrate on smaller dolls (no larger than 12"). You can easily find 1/2" flat brushes at places like Michaels or other art supply departments. If you keep it really clean, one will last a long time since it is not used that often.

CURVED END BRUSHES AND FILBERTS - These brushes are flat with curved ends. They are essential for good blending. The smaller concealer brush is the best brush for stippled on doll cheeks in special acrylics (called Open Acrylics) or oils. I use both sizes of Concealers for other stippling as well.
FOR CHEEKS AND STIPPLING - (Concealer Brushes) ~ In my top most-used brushes the brushes I use for easiest-ever cheeks are not available in art supplies. They are called concealer brushes sold in the makeup section of drug stores. I use two sizes and the ones I look for are called Fine Concealer (3/16" across) and Concealer (5/16" across) brushes. As of this writing, I find it increasingly difficult to find the same quality, so I no longer recommend searching out your own unless you are willing to experiment. Although in the art world these resemble filbert brushes, they behave much better, and for the low price you simply cannot get a better brush for this kind of job. It seems to dry brush better and stipple better for lots longer. I use them for cheeks and applying paint where I want to stipple or pounce the paint on to achieve shading. Other brushes lift off previous paint, but these are better at not. See section above to buy these or scroll down to get sets of paints with include one of these just for cheeks.

Filberts - I used to offer filberts in 3 sizes, but over time I have evolved to using only the concealer brushes instead. So when I began to hone down my inventory, I eliminated Filberts.
• Concealer Brushes Set of two sizes (3/16" and 5/16"). Use the 3/16" for cheeks on small dolls 3-12" and fine stippling. Since most of my dolls are in the smaller range, I find that I use this size most often. Use the (5/16") for larger areas of stippling. I use this one when stippling in hair on my 12 or 18" Izannahs. $9.50 for set 2 brushes. Add to Cart

COMB OR RAKE BRUSHES - These are for painting in the strokes that look like hair on Columbians and Izannah Walkers. They are constructed of alternating small clumps of long and short bristles. The longer bristles absorb and transmit the paint (usually somewhat thinned down) leaving spaces where the shorter bristles don't touch. At least that's the theory, which more often than not does not work as planned and you end up with a glob of paint where you really wanted individual strokes like hair. I used to offer (and try to use) varying sizes, but in 2011, I had a contract to make 250 dolls who would require using comb brushes. I tried every brush out there and in the end I found two important tricks. One is that unless your doll is very large (say 20" or more), it is unlikely that you would ever really want more than the one size brush I am now devoted to. It is sold as a 1/8", but really is a bit wider especially when the bristles spread as you put any pressure on the brush. Using this size brush means that it might take you longer to cover the intended area, but you will have so much more control over what you are painting, that it is well worth a few extra strokes. But what, you ask, do I do with my stash of bigger sizes of this type of brush? You can trim in from either side right next to the metal ferule and still get some good use or save them for larger areas.

The key to success using comb (or rake) brushes is to run the bristles freshly loaded with paint through a very fine tooth comb held in place in a small stand which holds the tiny comb horizontally with tines up so you hands are both free to hold the doll in one hand and use the paint brush in the other. Every time you get fresh paint (after cleaning off your brush), run the bristles thru the tiny comb stand which will nicely separate your bristles so as to paint nice parallel lines. This little tool makes comb brushing hair details easier, an otherwise difficult task to master. In fact, in my experience, I don't think you can use these brushes without this tool. Instructions included. Clean this tool frequently and use for a long time.

• 1/8" Comb/Rake Brush (the smallest available).9.50 Add to Cart
• Comb Tool Wooden Stand with Comb and Instructions $5.75 Add to Cart
• Extra Tiny Comb for Cleaning Comb (or Rake) Brushes (with Instructions) $1.00 Add to Cart

FANTASTIX PAINT STICKS for Blending and Cheek Painting on Tiny Dolls - These are like the insides of felt tip markers. They can be used to dry brush (blot or blush) on cheeks (on tiny dolls where even a small brush is too large) or other areas that need a blended-out look. They are disposable, but can be used more than once if cleaned and caps put on. I like to use them for small doll cheeks (Hitty and smaller). They also make good erasers for stray paint. They accomplish the same thing as the silk cheek tool above but are ready made and disposable. Packages of 6.
• Fine Tip Size $6.30 Add to Cart

SQUEEZE BOTTLES (For dispensing paints, drops of water, drops of retarder - These small squeeze bottles are a great size to keep these supplies not only readily at hand but ready to dispense while you work. And good to travel with too. Set of 4 $6.50 Add to Cart

PAINTS $2.95 ea.
These are my own blends and therefore more costly. You can also use commercial liquid acrylic paints in similar colors. These are all one oz. size containers:
Lighter Body Tan (a new blend of the Original Body Tan in a lighter version) Add to Cart Note: This has become my preferred color and the only body color I am now using.
Darker Body Tan - My original Body Tan (rosier and lighter tan; FYI this color exactly matches a vintage Izannah Walker as compared to a paint swatch from under her clothes where no fading has occurred) Add to Cart
Off-White (snowmen, angel wings,whites of eyes and general use) Add to Cart
Cheek Color Add to Cart
Lip Color Add to Cart
Light Brown (softer brow & eyeliner and shading color) Add to Cart
Blue Eyes Paint Add to Cart
Dark Brown (shoes and hair and darker brow & eyeliner) Add to Cart
Black-Brown (for pupils) Add to Cart
Blonde Hair Paint (use Dark Antiquing below tp accent this color) Add to Cart

Black Doll Body Paint Add to Cart
Black Doll Antiquing SOLD OUT
Black Doll Gesso - when body paint sanded, this golden color shines through and brings the skin tone to life. Only use where gesso is called for. Add to Cart

A BASIC PAINT SET - All my basic colors in one set. Scroll down for more info.

MY FAVORITE CHEEK PAINT SET TO THE RESCUE ~ Use acrylics for all other painting, but use alkyd oils for at least cheeks for better, easier cheeks. If you will be using these paints soon after receipt, the best way to paint cheeks fairly effortlessly is with alkyd oils (fast drying oils). Oils allow you to easily feather out the edges using a dry brush and virtually no paint on your brush. Clean up with turpentine or turp substitute. You can then seal with varnish (recommended is Mod Podge Matte) and antique as usual. Included with the set of three colors in small paint pots (Titanium White, Cadmium Red Deep, and Burnt Sienna) are a special brush for applying (concealer brush), a small pot of Mod Podge Matte and basic instructions.
CHEEK PAINT SET $9.95 Add to Cart
JUST THE PAINTS (no extras) $4.95 Add to Cart

NEW - CHEEK PAINT SET with OPEN ACRYLICS ~ My favorite technique for painting all of my dolls' cheeks is with oil paints (alkyds) using a concealer brush, but sometimes you just don't want to use oils, even fast drying ones, so I have discovered that the use of open acrylics is as close as you can come to using oils with the benefit of their being water based. The little pot I am supplying in this starter kit will last a long time and do many dolls' cheeks. The set includes the pot to get started of my special color mix and another pot of sealer, instructions and tips plus the recipe for making more and best of all, the special concealer brush. $5.95 Add to Cart

WAX ANTIQUING MEDIUM (Not for painted surfaces)
This is a product that I worked on for years. Its use is limited to unpainted dolls or fabrics that can be ironed. Comes with detailed instructions to "antique" dolls to really look vintage - not just tea-dyed. Package comes with a small tin of the wax medium, sandpaper and sample overdye, all that's needed, except spray starch, to do a realistic job. $6.50 Add to Cart

This is my own antiquing formula and is painted on over painted surfaces like a glaze that imparts the look of age. Best to apply using a little of the Retarder to help the blending time and over a sealed surface (use a matte or satin varnish - sold above - or a spray sealer). Varying degrees of lightness are achieved by adding more of the Retarder. For darker skinned dolls, see next item. $3.50 1 oz. Add to Cart

I know for so many through my classes that people have a hard time with antiquing and are rightly afraid that in the end after all the effort of painting, that they will jeopardize their work. And yet it imparts such important depth and character that is so necessary even on dolls intended to look more pristine than primitive. This story goes back to my early days of going primitive when I called upon a wonderful old standby from the paint industry for my antiquing which was an oil based product just for this. But when I wanted to kit my work, this oil based products like the other oil based paints I only used in those days, would not last once out of its metal can. So began the long struggle for a water based antiquing, the best of which came about after many long struggles and is the Antiquing Glaze sold above. Due to my kits I became adept at antiquing and so forgot about that old product until I too would have the usual difficulties and then I would long for it. Recently a classroom emergency caused me to have to improvise and when I did I realized that though we could not put the new solution into a kit either (no shelf life once the product is out of its tube), I could help out dollmakers by letting them in on how to do an oil based antique that is easy to mix up, doesn't take too long to dry (overnight), can go on over acrylic paints or oils, is easy to adjust and remove if you get too much and is, in general pretty darn fool proof. You only need 2 ingredients: an alkyd oil paint and turpentine or substitute. Here is a tube of alkyd Vandyke Brown which will last you for many scores of dolls and the tube will probably still be good for your children. The turps can be found readily at most craft stores - I recommend Turpenoid in the blue can (not the green one).
Tube of Alkyd Vandyke Brown (Comes with How-To Instructions) $7.95 Add to Cart
Trial small paint pot (just to see - it won't last long so be ready to try it) of the oil paint $2.50 (Comes with How-To Instructions) Add to Cart

This is a mahogany rich warm brown antiquing glaze that is good to use on black doll skin and as an accent color on lighter colors of hair (regular antiquing is too close in color to lighter hair). $2.75 Add to Cart (Same as Black Doll Antiquing above)

VARNISH This is a high quality varnish with a nice finish in a soft sheen. 2 oz. $3.75 Add to Cart
HINT ~ My recommendation for the best finish and sealer with a low sheen is to use Mod Podge Matte, available most everywhere. Also, read my Hints page about matte finishes.

(painting extender) - This medium is standard fare on my painting table - I use it in nearly every water based paint I paint with, especially the detail painting and antiquing which requires fuss time. This is a JoSonja brand product that is more liquid than gels, but lots better for allowing you to spread paints and antiquing with more working time. Vastly helps the whole antiquing process and also good for getting paint to paint fine lines with ease.This is only added to water based paints. 2 ounce bottle will last a long time. $5.50 Add to Cart


PAINT YOUR DOLLS WITH OILS ~ An instruction booklet with photos showing you my pretty foolproof ways of oil painting your dolls. Covers painting black dolls and antiquing made easy. New price $12 Add to Cart

BASIC FACE PAINTING SET ~ To help people using just patterns, or making lots of dolls. A strip of larger sized paint pots with all the water based colors you need to do the detail work on any doll face. Cheek paint is new open acrylic blend for easier blending than liquid acrylics. Combine this with a skin color paint of your choice and antiquing (all sold above) and you have all you need. Comes with tips, concealer paint brush for cheeks, Fantastix paint stick for blending, toothpicks, special Qtips, sealer for cheeks, and retarder medium. Note: Some dolls require gesso which is commonly available at arts and crafts stores. $9.95 set Add to Cart

SIMPLE DOLL FACE MAKING SET USING COLORED PENCILS ~ A simple alternative for painted cloth doll faces is to use colored pencils. Paint (matte finish) must be thinned to sink in and allow some "tooth" (not be too smooth). With pencils you have the most control as opposed to brushes, they can be erased until right, and if sealed properly, will last, especially for display dolls (not played with). NEW SET includes set of 8 special colors that will make blue or brown eyes, 2 paints for easy places, a brown Micron for all outlining and matte varnish to seal, round toothpicks for dots and complete instructions. Can also be used on bare cloth but a spray fixitive required. $14.50 Add to Cart

NEW - ALKYD OIL PAINTING TRIAL SET ~ Buying oils to just try a doll is very costly, but here is enough to paint many dolls (at least the detail colors and enough to paint one doll's skin color and more if you add some white). These are my favorite fast drying alkyd oils. Alkyds dry within a few hours as opposed to several days with regular oils. The set comes with how to mix the right colors and some basic getting started info. All you need are good brushes and turpentine or turp substitute. Oils dry out in small quantities, so do not order these until you are ready to use (I cannot guarantee how long they are usable - possibly a few months if not opened). We put them up fresh for each order. Once you decide you like using oils, then investing in your own full tubes (which last forever)will feel better. $13.95 Add to Cart

MY FAVORITE CHEEK PAINT SET TO THE RESCUE ~ Use acrylics for all other painting, but use alkyd oils for at least cheeks for better, easier cheeks. If you will be using these paints soon after receipt, the best way to paint cheeks fairly effortlessly is with alkyd oils (fast drying oils). Oils allow you to easily feather out the edges using a dry brush and virtually no paint on your brush. Clean up with turpentine or turp substitute. You can then seal with varnish (recommended is Mod Podge Matte) and antique as usual. Included with the set of three colors in small paint pots (Titanium White, Cadmium Red Deep, and Burnt Sienna) are a concealer brush, a brush point Fantastik Paint Stick, a foam Q-tip, and basic instructions.
CHEEK PAINT SET $9.95 Add to Cart
JUST THE PAINTS (no extras) $4.95 Add to Cart

MAKE YOUR OWN OIL BASED ANTIQUING - Scroll back up to see this.

COBALT DRIER ~ GAIL'S FAVORITE DRYER FOR OILS (ALKYDS  OR REGULAR) ~ Cobalt Dryer is the only dryer that dries really fast and hard without making the paints shiny. A drop or two of this old stand-by drier is all you need to make your alkyds dry in about an hour or so. Use caution as cobalt is dangerous if not used wisely. .5 oz container with eyedropper lid. $7.00 Add to Cart
NEW NOTE: I no longer recommend using cobalt since using alkyd oils (which I do recommend) removes the need for a dryer due to the speed with which they dry and cobalt is dangerous. However, there are times when you might want a dryer, and if so, this is the one I recommend.

TURPENOID ~ TURPENTINE SUBSTITUTE ~ I recommend Turpenoid in a lot of my work where any oil painting is done. This product is odorless (well, a small odor is there to be honest, but not bothersome). I got in the habit of using it due to teaching where some students are sensitive to real turpentine. Small 4 oz. bottle $7.50 Add to Cart

Tip for Turpenoid: If you are getting this product elsewhere, make sure to get regular Turpenoid (blue can) and not Turpenoid Natural (green can or label). Only use the Natural for cleaning brushes or clothes and not as a medium for use on your painting. It contains additives to soften paints (for cleaning) so you will end up softening the underlying layers and they will not dry well. Perhaps not even last long once dried.

HINTS FOR GOOD BRUSH MAINTAINANCE (Water based paints hints) - Do not overlook the importance of this step in good painting. If your brushes are hindering your painting quality, it is likely they have not been properly maintained or replaced. Get some Brush Cleaner (a powerful solvent to clean hardened paint), and some alcohol, an eye dropper or tiny squeeze bottle of water, some liquid soap (good is Dr Bronner's available in health foods or below) and if you admit you are the type to put your brush in the clean up water and leave it there, have some clothespins handy so you can suspend your brush in the water and not let it sit there with bristles resting on the bottom. While painting, clean your brush frequently and wipe and squeeze bristles flat in your rag. Do this nearly every dip into the paint for best results. Otherwise, the paint starts to glob and dry on the bristles. This seems tedious, but necessary. Also keep adding a drop or two of water to your paint and stirring with toothpick to keep it flowing - as you are painting, the surface is drying in the air, so adding a couple drops of water at a time replaces evaporated water. When you are done with a certain brush, rinse well in the water. Pour some alcohol in a small container (I keep one handy) or even just the alcohol cap and really work in the alcohol (even bending the bristles so it gets way inside where the damage begins as dried up paint starts to spread the bristles). You will be amazed at how discolored the alcohol gets. Once it is really clean, put a drop or two of the soap on the bristles, clean in running water and thensquish another drop of the soap into the bristles squeezing them flat and "pointing" the bristles like the brush was new. Let dry with soap in it and it is ready to use again. In cases where you forgot your brush and now the paint is dry and bristles stiff, decant a little of the Brush Cleaner mentioned above and soak the bristles till the dried paint is soft. Wipe off as much as possible with a rag, then repeat until it seems clean. Now finish up with the alcohol and soap. Do not overestimate how long a brush is good for. Even well-cared for brushes do not last very long. Owning new condition good quality brushes at all times will make your painting much easier, in fact, it may not be possible to paint well without them.

Dr. Bronners Magic Soap - 2 oz squeeze bottle. $2.75 Add to Cart



DYE - Rit Tan
Since it is sometimes hard to find, here is an economy size of the powdered tan dye I use to overdye just about everything to give things that just-right old look or sometimes just to take the newness or brightness off of some fabrics you might not otherwise use. My instructions included. I no longer offer this and prefer Paint Overdye below for aging. If you want Rit dyes you can find them readily in stores or online.
This is a product that I worked on for years. Its use is limited to unpainted dolls or fabrics that can be ironed. Comes with detailed instructions to "antique" dolls to really look vintage - not just tea-dyed. Package comes with a small tin of the wax medium and, sandpaper and powdered dye to overdye, all that's needed, except spray starch, to do a realistic job. $6.50 Add to Cart
NEW ~ Large size tins now available. This is just the antiquing wax in a 2.5 " tin, no instructions, sandpaper or powdered overdye included. $12.00 Add to Cart

Original Aged
for "tanning" up color

The very best and easiest way to get the old look for fabrics (silks too) and laces, especially whites and too-brights. Easier than stovetop methods but must be used only on flat fabrics and laces. Complete instructions included for using this. Makes new print fabrics look old, makes whites and laces look vintage. Mixes with water, reusable and dries quickly. Overdyed samples included.
2oz. jar (will do a lot) $7.50 Add to Cart

I have been finding the need for an overdye that gives a more yellowed look - just the kind that old whites and old laces get. Presenting this new formula.
NOTES ~ To distinguish between the Original and Yellowing (I recommend you have some of each since it is not always a given which one you will like the best in any situation), the original formula (above) should be thought of as giving the aged and dirty look and for toning down that too bright look of many prints and fabrics, and the new formula for when a more aged, but yellowed look is desired. I found the yellowing formula best on laces and some whites. An example of how fickle dyeing is, I use my Original recipe on most fabrics and my regular fine batiste, but for the extra fine batiste I find the Yellowing works best. Most times we need Yellowing on laces used but Original on the batiste even if they are going together. This is why I recommend having both recipes on hand. Experiment on small pieces.
2oz. jar (will do a lot) $7.50 Add to Cart

New Overdye for Doll Bodies
When my 30+ years of always using one tried and true cotton body fabric which came in just the right tan was discontinued I first needed to stop wailing and tearing out my hair and figure out what next. Not wanting to switch fabrics, it remained to order the same fabric in an unacceptable light color and then work out a paint overdye color to make my own good color for that vintage and much handled look everyone loves on old cloth dolls. This new color can be used on any light cotton and unlike factory dyed fabric, does help to add to the true age as any hand dyed fiber does, which are the good things out of the bad. We also have used this as a darker overdye on some fabrics needed a darker cast.
2oz. jar (will do a lot) $7.50 Add to Cart

Dyeing Overdyeing Gail Wilson DesignsDyeing Overdyeing Gail Wilson Designs

See Above under Basic Dollmaking Fabrics for Dyeable Silks and Other Suggestions

This collection of my basic palette of GW colors uses Rit powdered dyes. I no longer sell pre-mixed packets of the colors, but all may be readily found either in stores near you or by Googling the colors in each recipe. Each recipe in the color palette has three variations. If used full strength, the darker version of the color is produced, used in lesser strength produces a pastel of the same color and with the addition of specified amounts of gray, you get a muted, dustier color. Gail swears by all of these colors (taken from Colonial palettes) and finds that you can get just about any combination that is needed to suit anyone's fancy or that of a demanding doll. These dye colors are easy to use Rit dyes and just take a few minutes on the stovetop. Primarily they are for dyeing the silks above, but can also be used on wools or even cottons (however, cotton is harder to achieve optimum results).

Includes all recipes for my basic color palette plus many more deep colors for wools used in Penny Rug designs or other Santa accessories. $4.50 Add to Cart